What Is A Knock-Out Punch Tool?

Electricians can get more done in less time thanks to the knock-out tool and other examples of how tools have evolved to make work easier, quicker, and more efficient.

Knock-out tools, sometimes known as knock-out punches, are specialized instruments used for a single task: punching neat, round openings in electrical boxes and panels, typically to accommodate conduit of a specific dimension.

In the past, this was accomplished by drilling a pilot hole and enlarging it with a reamer. Various chisels, hole saws, and step bits were used by electricians to cut through metal.

In 1928, Greenlee launched their first product line of knock-out tools, marking the beginning of those times. This means that knock-out tools have been available for a lot longer than the majority of today’s electricians have been alive.

Pair of Knockout Punches

If an electrician needs to drill fresh holes in a junction box or a control panel, he or she will go for a knock-out punch. You can choose from a wide range of knockout punch sizes with a quality knock-out punch set. Traditional manual knockout punches require a socket wrench to operate.

However, the usage of a hydraulic pump and a heavy-duty knock-out punch is excessive for domestic systems. The majority of standard punches can penetrate 10 gauge mild steel in addition to stainless steel, acrylic, and fiberglass. If you don’t have a knockout punch on hand, you can always use a hole saw and drilling, but a punched will leave you with a cleaner hole with considerably less fuss and noise.

Operation

In order to use a knock-out punch, first a prototype hole is drilled that is only slightly bigger than the screw on the tool. After the pilot hole has been drilled, the screw with the die attached is inserted. To draw the punch completely through the metal sheet, the screw is inserted into the punch and tightened.

With the manual approach, you’ll need an Allen key or wrench to turn a screw with a hex base or square head. The range of a hand-operated knock-out punch is between 0.5 to 1.25 inches (13 to 32 mm). The ratchet system includes a special ratcheting wrench powered by a ball screw to facilitate rapid and simple adjustments.

Mechanical advantage of this device is about 220:1, and it can punch holes in 10 gauge mild steel up to 3 inches (76 millimeters) in diameter. A hydraulic system can make small holes to 6 in (150 mm) in diameter and is the simplest to operate, but it is also more larger and heavier than the other methods. The dies are hooked to the ram, which is in turn linked to the mechanical unit by a hose.

Classifications Of Sizes And Form

These punches can be measured in a number of different ways. Electrical knock-out sizes and actual dimensional holes are the two most prevalent sizes. If you’re using 3/4-inch conduit, a hole punched with a 1.1-inch punch will be the right size for your pipes.

Holes punched with a dimensional size punch are almost the specified size. Many stores sell punch sets in both metric and imperial sizes. Several different shaped chassis punches are available, with the most common being the standard round

Square and hexagonal shapes are also available, as are special hole configurations for key tabs and D-sub connections. A square or keyed bolt and a secondary nut on the punch end are commonly used to align the punch and die when working with unusual forms.

Tips for Using a Boxing Punching Bag

There are essentially three main components to knock-out punches: the draw stud (essentially a huge threaded bolt), the die (a steel cylinder), and the punch itself. In order to create a punch hole:

1. Use a drilling and metal-cutting bit to bore a hole in the material. The draw stud’s size dictates the minimum allowable hole size. In general, small draw studs are 3/8 inches in diameter, but larger studs can be as large as 3/4 inches.
2. Draw stud with appropriate-sized die affixed to it is inserted into a pilot hole.
3. Insert the desired punch size onto the draw stud and tighten it by hand to the reverse side of the material.
4. Using a ratchet wrench, you can draw the punch closer to the die by turning the bolt. Keep cranking until you feel the punch enter the target.
5. When you take apart the draw stud and punch, you’ll find a tiny ring of scrap material stuck inside the die. This is known as a slug, and because the punch usually cuts it in two, it is often referred to as a “slug-buster.”

Ways to Get the Most Out of Your Knock-Out Punch Set

Use a step drill bit to create the pilot hole for the draw stud. This bit has a cone shape and is designed to drill holes in sheet metal and other thin materials of varying thicknesses. There is no reason to drill a pilot hole before using a self-tapping or self-drilling step bit.

Experienced drillers know that it’s often necessary to start with a smaller hole and work up to the larger one, or use a pilot hole.

If your knockout punch set has draw studs, you might find a ratchet wrench in the box, too. The location of the wrench and the punches are fixed, making this a useful tool. There is no need to rummage around for an adjustable wrench or a normal ratchet wrench and socket.

Smaller sets typically include a 1/2-inch, 3/4-inch, 1-inch, and 1-and-a-quarter-inch punch, as well as a small and big draw stud; larger sets typically include a 2-inch, 3-inch, 4-inch, and larger punch, although may require a separate punch for each size hole.

Essential parts of a knock-out tool are a punch and die, draw stud, and a device to pull the stud. A ratchet wrench, hydraulic pump, or battery-operated hydraulics system are all viable options for this pulling apparatus.

Many tools can be used to punch holes in mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, fiberglass, and plastic, depending on their ratings. The diameters of the holes created by standard knock-out punches are between 1.5 and 6 inches.

Though evolution often takes its time, a number of the most notable breakthroughs in knockout tools have occurred within the past several years.

Milwaukee Tool’s Exact Quick Reset Draw Studs, compatible with the industry’s typical M18 Force Logic knock-out mechanism and its lithium-ion batteries, were introduced in May 2017.

Conclusion

Knock-out tools are specialized instruments used for a single task: punching neat, round openings in electrical boxes and panels. Traditional manual knockout punches require a socket wrench to operate. The majority of standard punches can penetrate 10 gauge mild steel in addition to stainless steel, acrylic, and fiberglass. The range of a hand-operated knock-out punch is between 0.5 to 1.25 inches (13 to 32 mm). A hydraulic system can make small holes to 6 in (150 mm).

The dies are hooked to the ram, which is in turn linked to the mechanical unit by a hose. Using a ratchet wrench, you can draw the punch closer to the die by turning the bolt. The location of the wrench and the punches are fixed, making this a useful tool. Knock-out tools can be used to punch holes in mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, fiberglass, and plastic.

Content Summary: 

• Electricians can get more done in less time thanks to the knock-out tool and other examples of how tools have evolved to make work easier, quicker, and more efficient.
• Knock-out tools, sometimes known as knock-out punches, are specialized instruments used for a single task: punching neat, round openings in electrical boxes and panels, typically to accommodate conduit of a specific dimension.
• In the past, this was accomplished by drilling a pilot hole and enlarging it with a reamer.
• Various chisels, hole saws, and step bits were used by electricians to cut through metal.
• In 1928, Greenlee launched their first product line of knock-out tools, marking the beginning of those times.
• This means that knock-out tools have been available for a lot longer than the majority of today’s electricians have been alive.
• Punches If an electrician needs to drill fresh holes in a junction box or a control panel, he or she will go for a knock-out punch.
• You can choose from a wide range of knockout punch sizes with a quality knock-out punch set.
• Traditional manual knockout punches require a socket wrench to operate.
• However, the usage of a hydraulic pump and a heavy-duty knock-out punch is excessive for domestic systems.
• The majority of standard punches can penetrate 10 gauge mild steel in addition to stainless steel, acrylic, and fiberglass.
• If you don’t have a knockout punch on hand, you can always use a hole saw and drilling, but a punch will leave you with a cleaner hole with considerably less fuss and noise.
• In order to use a knock-out punch, first a prototype hole is drilled that is only slightly bigger than the screw on the tool.
• After the pilot hole has been drilled, the screw with the die attached is inserted.
• To draw the punch completely through the metal sheet, the screw is inserted into the punch and tightened.
• With the manual approach, you’ll need an Allen key or wrench to turn a screw with a hex base or square head.
• The range of a hand-operated knock-out punch is between 0.5 to 1.25 inches (13 to 32 mm).
• The ratchet system includes a special ratcheting wrench powered by a ball screw to facilitate rapid and simple adjustments.
• Mechanical advantage of this device is about 220:1, and it can punch holes in 10 gauge mild steel up to 3 inches (76 millimeters) in diameter.
• A hydraulic system can make small holes to 6 in (150 mm) in diameter and is the simplest to operate, but it is also larger and heavier than the other methods.
• The dies are hooked to the ram, which is in turn linked to the mechanical unit by a hose.
• These punches can be measured in a number of different ways.
• Electrical knock-out sizes and actual dimensional holes are the two most prevalent sizes.
• If you’re using 3/4-inch conduit, a hole punched with a 1.1-inch punch will be the right size for your pipes.
• Holes punched with a dimensional size punch are almost the specified size.
• Many stores sell punch sets in both metric and imperial sizes.
• Several different shaped chassis punches are available, with the most common being the standard round Square and hexagonal shapes are also available, as are special hole configurations for key tabs and D-sub connections.
• A square or keyed bolt and a secondary nut on the punch end are commonly used to align the punch and die when working with unusual forms.
• There are essentially three main components to knock-out punches: the draw stud (essentially a huge threaded bolt), the die (a steel cylinder), and the punch itself.
• In order to create a punch hole: Use a drilling and metal-cutting bit to bore a hole in the material.
• The draw stud’s size dictates the minimum allowable hole size.
• In general, small draw studs are 3/8 inches in diameter, but larger studs can be as large as 3/4 inches.
• Draw stud with appropriate-sized die affixed to it is inserted into a pilot hole.
• Insert the desired punch size onto the draw stud and tighten it by hand to the reverse side of the material.
• Using a ratchet wrench, you can draw the punch closer to the die by turning the bolt.
• Keep cranking until you feel the punch enter the target.
• When you take apart the draw stud and punch, you’ll find a tiny ring of scrap material stuck inside the die.
• This is known as a slug, and because the punch usually cuts it in two, it is often referred to as a “slug-buster.”
• Use a step drill bit to create the pilot hole for the draw stud.
• This bit has a cone shape and is designed to drill holes in sheet metal and other thin materials of varying thicknesses.
• There is no reason to drill a pilot hole before using a self-tapping or self-drilling step bit.
• Experienced drillers know that it’s often necessary to start with a smaller hole and work up to the larger one, or use a pilot hole.
• If your knockout punch set has draw studs, you might find a ratchet wrench in the box, too.
• The location of the wrench and the punches are fixed, making this a useful tool.
• There is no need to rummage around for an adjustable wrench or a normal ratchet wrench and socket.
• Smaller sets typically include a 1/2-inch, 3/4-inch, 1-inch, and 1-and-a-quarter-inch punch, as well as a small and big draw stud; larger sets typically include a 2-inch, 3-inch, 4-inch, and larger punch, although may require a separate punch for each size hole.
• Essential parts of a knock-out tool are a punch and die, draw stud, and a device to pull the stud.
• A ratchet wrench, hydraulic pump, or battery-operated hydraulics system are all viable options for this pulling apparatus.
• Many tools can be used to punch holes in mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, fiberglass, and plastic, depending on their ratings.
• The diameters of the holes created by standard knock-out punches are between 1.5 and 6 inches.